My journey ends as it began six months ago in Alaska: In the cold and rain, with strong winds as a bonus. Hence the feeling of cold is much more intense.
Two days ago, driving to El Calafate to see Perito Moreno, with headwind, my bike was capped at 140 km / h, while its fuel consumption was up to record amounts. The next day, on the same road, but opposite direction, I easily I reached 200 km / h. If headwinds give my bike a hard time, for me, it is side winds that drive me mad. In the late afternoon, when gusts reach their maximum violence, I must significantly reduce my cruising speed, sometimes as low as 60 km / h.

Have you ever seen birds fly backwards? I did.
Or, for motorcyclists: Have you ever taken a left turn, with your bike leaning to the right? With the same side wind, a right turn, (the side from which wind blows) must be negotiated at very low speed: the bike is already leaning so much on the straight, that additional inclination would mean falling down.
Well, with winds of Patagonia, all this is possible.

Temperatures dropped rapidly from 32 ° to 15 ° and then at 6 ° in just 3 days.

Apart from the region's national parks, on the west near Chile’s border, the landscape is as flat, desert, bleak and boring as was the Pampa before. Only the dominant color has changed from green to brown and pale yellow. The sky is gray or black, and if there are bits of blue sky, it is a pale blue. Even the sun is very pale, trying in vain to warm the landscape during the rare moments when it manages to pierce the clouds.

Basically I would have arrived in Ushuaia today. But a rather long border crossing, followed by a ferry to crossing of the Strait of Magellan, and a 120km long  tough gravel track delayed me quite a lot. At the end, rain, wind and near freezing temperatures forced me to call it the day just 220km from Ushuaia.

So, the big day will be tomorrow.

In principle….